Lavender

Variety History

English lavender has been cultivated since Roman times for its fragrance, medicinal properties, and culinary uses. The name comes from the Latin "lavare" (to wash) — Romans used it in baths. The English varieties were selected for cold hardiness.

Regional Context

Lavender can thrive in the PNW with proper drainage. Our mild climate is fine, but winter wet is the enemy. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the hardiest type and best for our climate. Plant on south-facing slopes or in gravelly raised beds. Bainbridge has several lavender farms that prove it works here. Harvest flower spikes when buds are just opening for best fragrance.

Growing Technique

Start from transplants (not seed — seed-grown lavender is variable and slow). Plant in spring in full sun with excellent drainage — lavender will die in wet, heavy soil. Amend Bainbridge clay with lots of coarse sand and gravel; raised beds or berms are ideal. Space 18-24" apart (1 per sq ft). Do NOT fertilize — lavender thrives in poor soil; rich soil produces leggy growth and few flowers. Water sparingly once established — lavender is drought-tolerant. Prune after flowering: cut back by 1/3, never into bare wood (it will not regrow from old wood). Replace plants every 5-7 years when they become woody.

Watch For

• Root rot from wet soil is the #1 killer — lavender demands drainage. Heavy clay soil without amendment = dead lavender by winter. Pruning into old bare wood kills the plant — always leave green growth below your cut. Over-fertilizing produces floppy plants with few flowers. PNW winter wet kills more lavender than cold — plant on a slope or in raised beds.

Recipes